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Crag & Route Beta

Area	Location	Sub Location	Crag	Links
VIC Arapiles	(General)	(General)	(General)	[ Arapiles Guide \| Arapiles Images ]

Topic Date User

Routes for new leader 19-Mar-2009 At 12:56:40 PM prb

Message

Being taught by someone who knows what they're doing and picking suitable routes is one side of it,
but the intangibles of having good spatial awareness, being sensible and showing good judgement is
the other. Some people pick it up quickly, some never do. I know someone who enjoys leading but
doesn't have the type of brain to visualize placements very well despite a fair bit of instruction. At
least she admits it so leads easy climbs and puts in a lot of gear.

So one's progress as a leader is unpredictable - starting at Bushranger is a good idea, but our new
leader could be nutting her way safely up I'm a Little Asteroid before too long. Sometimes beginners
can be a bit overfocussed on cams, encourage her to find plenty of passive placements. Speaking of
Trapeze, I too have seen pieces pull at the end of the traverse.

I think my first lead was Frontignac (11) at Onkaparinga. Belaying someone on their first trad lead can
be a little concerning. One girl was keen when she was living here in Adelaide and I started her on The
Pleasure Dome (15). Only one piece to arrange and nothing to hit but air. She did it!