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Chockstone Forum - Crag & Route Beta

Crag & Route Beta

Area Location Sub Location Crag Links
All SA (General) (General) (General)  

Topic Date User
Muesli enhanced - or have I gotten better? 7-Jan-2009 At 8:12:17 AM cantcrimp
Message
Muesli hasn't been chipped. I was on it last week. One mention of chipping and suddenly every route in the gorge has been chipped.

There was a bunch of tick marks all over the footers on the lower section though. Please brush the tick marks off after you have finished working your route and if you need tick marks to locate the footers on a route with such large foot holds perhaps you need to go see the optometrist.

In regards to the connection I will fess up and admit that it was me that ripped the hold off it, well the second time round anyway. The small gaston was loose for as long as I have been climbing. It then snapped off when someone else was climbing it. Then the 'new' hold that appeared in it's absence flew off when I was running laps one day.Too much cake. I have managed to climb the route using a pinch above where the old gaston was at grade 26 (GC was given 26 originally but was crazy soft for the grade. The connection is a stout 24.) all the routes that use this start are a little harder than before but the new move is rad, cool cross through from the pinch to a small hold. Like a cool woodie problem. I ditched the hold to save people from the temptation of creating a horrid glue job!

Have fun with this.

Craig



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