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Chockstone Forum - Crag & Route Beta

Crag & Route Beta

Area	Location	Sub Location	Crag	Links
VIC Buffalo	Gorge	North Side	North Wall	[ Gorge Guide ]

Topic Date User

Ozymandias Rebolt 14-Nov-2008 At 8:02:03 PM sliamese

Message

hey everyone! in a month or so im planning on heading up to the buff for a little-big-wall fix. ive been thinking of replacing the bolts on the upper bolt ladder of Ozy Direct. currently the bolts in the ladder are getting rusty, droopy and generally a little manky. they probably do have a few year left in them but i think with this sort of thing its better to get in early, when you know you can do a good job of it. theres also a few belay bolts on the north wall that could do with an upgrade.

so my question(s) are:
1)Should i do it? is it necessary?

2) if i do replace them, any belay bolts will be 12mm tru-bolts with a fixe hanger. the bolts in the ladder however could be either glue-in carrots(8mm/10mm) , or 10mm dynabolts with a smaller(lucky) hanger. im personally leaning towards the fixed hangers, they would have been used back then if they had them. however i also like the idea of carrots, maintaining some character etc. thoughts??

3) does anybody have a jig or something to pull the old bolts out? im not so keen on having rust streaks in 10 years!

4) if the above re-bolting happen, is there any bolt funds etc out there that could chip in? im happy to pay for the bolts but if i can get a hand that would be sweet!!

5) Anybody keen to come do it with me?? probably take the ledge up it and do it over 3 days and just cruise! have a battery drill etc so wont be labouring on a hand drill!

appreciate any feedback/suggestions or just tell me to get f&*^ed!!

cheers

Simon Young