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Crag & Route Beta

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Topic Date User

Europe dreaming... 18-Sep-2008 At 11:15:00 AM onsight

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Hey Joe

We spent a few weeks in the Dolomites recently and I thought it was one of the most interesting climbing areas I've visited, despite - or perhaps partly because of - the choss.

Make sure you take some time to check out the WW1 battlements and learn some of the stories of what went on there then. Also, if the museum in Cortina is still running that "King and Cortina" exhibition then don't miss it - the King of Belgium's tick list from the early 1900's is mightily impressive as is the early 3D climbing photography...

As for climbs:
>Day 4: Sella Group. 4th Sella Tower. North Face (5.4b, VI+, 340m)
Don't bother. I did this and thought it a worthless pile of pox without much intesting climbing..
>Day 5: Sella Group. 2nd Sella Tower. North West Ridge (5.2c, VI-, 420m)
This however is apparently very good. Also third Tower apparentlty excellent but descent very "involved".
We did Punta Delle Cinque Dita Traverse to the Thumb (approx 6 pitches) with was a great experience also in the Sella area. Exposed ridge though so not for a windy day.

>but also wondering how good the Cinque Torri is. It looks good but maybe
>not quite as big/classic?
No, no as big but the rock is cleaner and maybe a good place to warm up or if weather not so great. Via Finlandia is the must do.

>Also - if anyone's got any ideas on accommodation that would be great
You'll burn through some Euros but if you can afford it I'd highly recommend some of the rifugios for a least a few nights; I think they add heaps to the Dolomites experience. The Cinque Torre Rifugio is tops, say hi to Maximo in the kitchen and tell him I sent you saying his pasta is the best in Italy... Also the Sellajoch house, the big one below Sella Pass, has unbelievably good food...

>We were thinking of staying at the Auronzo
>hut while in the Tre Cime region,
You would be better walking 20min to Rifugio Laveraredo.

>Also the grade conversions I'm pretty unclear about (probably subjective
>at the best of times) but we're wanting to be pretty conservative with
>our missions as the routes are so long, and some might take a while to
>get down from too!).
Good plan. I found the descents can be way more nasty and complicated than you might ever imagine. Enjoy.