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Chockstone Forum - Crag & Route Beta

Crag & Route Beta

Area	Location	Sub Location	Crag	Links
VIC Buffalo	(General)	(General)	(General)	[ Mt Buffalo Guide \| Images ]

Topic Date User

Buffalo - Angels substitute? 29-Aug-2007 At 1:58:11 PM harold

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Hi M9. I had a site at catani booked for a couple of weeks after christmas but then the place caught fire. Pretty disapointed but I did manage a weekend later in january. The weekend mission from Geelong is a bit harder to organize now with a 1 year old daughter tagging along. We did manage to get on Hard Rain which I have to say is the best climb I have ever been on.

A bit of beta for anyone interested in Hard Rain. Its no where near as long as the guide states. Maybe 75m at most. Also, for rapping in - douple ropes ( we had 60m but 50 might just make it) will get you to the double bolt belay belay of the 27. From there its a short rap to the ground. Also, I thought it would be way better to belay at the bolt belay of the 27 rather than the painful hanging belay at the end of the 22 section. Was getting pretty sore thighs by the time I got off the hanging belay. Finally, it would be great if someone could replace the bolt on the 3rd pitch. Thats got to be the most riduculous bolt Ive ever seen. Maybe 5mm thick and rusty. Might hold a coat hanger with a not too heavy jacket on it. Makes the slab traverse that its suposed to protect a little scary.
Vertical Tai Chi was another standout. Amazing position and climbing. The long weekend ended up not being as long as intended as two of my climbing partners managed to injure themselves. One with a buggered finger from trying to campus the fingerlock crux of lift girls lament when he couldnt get his feet to stick. The other dislocated his shoulder mid crux while seconding me up bewoulf!
Hopefully this summer we will do some dogging up the north wall if I can get a bit of time. The gorge is definitely on the top of the list of my favorite places to climb.