In general i've found with crackin grades, specifically as the grades get harder, (im currently trying to consolidate 21 and move onto 22 on trad) is that as kieran said, being well skilled in finding the subtle gear placements is key, and being able to identify them quickly, get them in, and clipped with the energy to move up or downclimb to a stance, shake out and continue. this comes with experience over the years and climbing extensively. i know im just paraphrasing what kieran said, but mainly explaining it my way. |