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Crag & Route Beta

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VIC Buffalo Gorge North Side North Wall [ Gorge Guide ] 

Topic Date User
Ozymandias gear list 21-Apr-2019 At 8:46:35 AM One Day Hero
On 9-Apr-2019 phillipivan wrote:
>You don't need doubles above a number 1 or 2 camalot. The stuff thats
>wide is pretty safe, and also short.
>You also wont require any micronuts smaller than a 2 RP (and even then).

>Microcams are not mandatory, but will make the going much quicker.

>We have way more toys to get up the climb than Ewbank or Baxter, so show
>a bit a spunk and get up it with whatever ya got. Have fun!

I don't really rate this macho attitude. The first time I did Ozy we had one functional microcam, no offset wires, no cam hooks, no peckers......and we took a couple of scary falls on terrain which is A1 with the correct tools. We weren't trying to be tough, it was a combination of inexperience and student frugality.

The whole bit about only taking a single set of hand and fist cams is dumb. I know the yanks are all about needlessly running the shit out of easy trad and aid, but every year a bunch of them get written off when a single "bombproof piece" pulls out after they've backcleaned themselves into death-fall territory. Carrying three extra cams is not going to be the difference between topping out or not, and it might save a life.

Ewbank and Baxter had mashies, rurps, knifeblades, a frigging hammer, and loads of aid climbing experience! Don't be a dick.

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