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Chockstone Forum - Crag & Route Beta

Crag & Route Beta

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VIC Buffalo Gorge North Side North Wall [ Gorge Guide ] 

Topic Date User
Ozymandias gear list 12-Apr-2019 At 8:41:09 PM Davedave
Pretty sure I've just done it with a set of the BD micro stoppers and a set of imp/dmm offset brassies, but may have had a few bootied mixed micros on the rack (and a few beaks) so ymmv. I've only ever used the standard ('narrow') cam hooks. You only need a single large hook eg. BD grappling for the flake move on p3.

I've always gone with a plush rack of micro and small cams (standard aliens and totem-totems) so can't comment on that, but offset alloys will be nice if your small cam rack is light (eg. HB/dmm alloy offset nuts).

I've always used a pair of #4 and #5 C4s on the offwidth pitch, so it sounds like I'm a bit of a wuss compared to others. Agree double #3 isn't useful.

Are you planning to free much ?

There's still a 0.75 X4 on P4 which is looking for a new owner, be wary of the pins, especially on the fang pitch (pulled one under ladderweight the other week which was fine a few weeks prior).

Best of luck with the aidventure.

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