On 28-Sep-2017 surfziggy wrote:
>Growing up climbing UK sport routes (swanage and Portland) and France,
>I think our routes here tend to be undergraded.
I haven't climbed there, ... but have come to the same opinion over time.
I think it started this trend about the same time that 'sport climbing' gained in popularity in Australia.
I chuckle when I read accounts of 'old school' grades spanking new wannabees!
Heh, heh, heh.
Have you been out and put up any new bouldering routes on the fallen Nth Av headland yet?
No, but I did go and check it out shortly after it fell off. One side looks like it could have some potentially very hard sport routes. It's super blank and overhung. The other side is a dusty slab, with no obvious trad protection. When I went to have a look it looked like a bomb had gone off! There was dust and grass, splinters of rock absolutely everywhere.
A mate and I figured we'd come back after there had been a good rain storm and have another look, but it hasn't happened yet. Word on the street is that there is another large piece ready to fall off.
Regarding sport grades round here: I find anything put up by Mikl at Narrabeen is usually going to be pretty stiff!