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Chockstone Forum - Crag & Route Beta

Crag & Route Beta

Area	Location	Sub Location	Crag	Links
VIC Arapiles	(General)	(General)	(General)	[ Arapiles Guide \| Arapiles Images ]

Topic Date User

Hidden Gems - Arapiles 21-Apr-2017 At 1:55:35 PM Wendy

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Are you working from Simey's or Lou's guide?

Have you checked out the world famous Garden Wall yet? Most of the routes are easily as good as Free Beer. Given that it's climbing in the sun weather shortly, you might like to try Shiralee Wall - Everything from Shiralee Direct right is pretty good. Everthing left, despite what Lou's guide says, not so good. You'll need to look them up on the Crag for all the routes.

Coeur de Lion is the most amazing obscure route i think I've done - although it does have 2 stars in Lou's guide, Cambell's in general is ignored as it didn't make the select guide. There's a 50m rap from above it now. It'd be super popular if if it was near camp. I remember Snorkler being ok from years ago, the 19 left of it it rather exciting (my link up has the best climbing), the 20 left again really good, also put an anchor there. The collection of 13s left again are a bit all over the place and the only really worthwhile climbing was the DF version of Heart full of Soul. The wall with Swill was generally ok and the 18 above it (Stoker) good. Plumber's crack, sundowner, marmite, perpetual standstill all worth bothering with. I'm not really sure what the story with the finish of Marmite - there's not really a jam crack on the right and the DF described as obvious is not really so. We stepped right and went up the line on the wall, which is not really a jam crack but good. There's a super highway to Campbell's these days courtesy of paragliders and you've reminded me I have a few new routes to get back to there.

Senior Citizens wall is also worth a look, - good 18, 19 and 21 and has an anchor. Limp and Je Suis un Legend are Douglas's contribution to getting people onto comic strip wall and new image wall at an easier grade. Mickey Finn is the grade 15 version of Procul Harem (the hun is crap though). Wormwood is good (anchor on that ledge too) but give Defector a miss. The new routes on the base of Tiger Wall are generally good (indeed, so are many of the older single pitch things there if you haven't done them - add Monkey Paw and Resignation VS to those in Simey's guide) and Geoff's new 14 near Hawk supposed to be good.

I tend to put comments on anything obscure I do on the crag so if you see anything interesting looking, have a look at the ascents and see if i've written anything. I spend a lot of time climbing obscurity and try to say if it was good, worthless, loose, filthy, impossible to find etc etc. Keiran L is a good source of info as well. Let me know if you need a climbing partner for obscurity and I'll see what else I haven't been able to convince anyone else of yet ... say more new routing at CK for starters.