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Chockstone Forum - Crag & Route Beta

Crag & Route Beta

Area Location Sub Location Crag Links
VIC Northwest (General) (General) (General)  

Topic Date User
Beta on 30-Apr-2015 At 11:12:54 AM harold

I emailed Steve for info on this route a few years back and he kindly gave me the description below. Nice well protected slab route mostly on stainless glue in bolts. Just need a bunch of hangers and a few small/medium cams and wires. You will easily see the line of bolts not far from the main abseil access. Probably a good escape option if you back off one of the older scary, runout routes. I'll try and get around to adding this to the crag sometime, I haven't seen it in a guide.

" North West Victoria Guide

Red Rock

1000 Watts 165mt Grade 15

Our intent was a safe and well protected and hopefully one available to the masses. I think we succeeded.

Start 15mt down below the Endless Summer - Yasser block and just past a jumble of boulders.
1. 40m. (13)
Testing moves up to a bolt at 6mt. Follow a seam heading left and past a cam placement. Move up left past a second bolt to the right and on to 2 bomber cam placements in a seam back to you left. Straight up past 2 more bolts to a couple of thin moves below the belay (DFH) on a small headwall.

2. 45m (14)
Head out right and up then straight up past 4 more bolts. From the 4th bolt you can continue straight up past a 5th bolt or move left to a series of "brilliant" pockets and a bolt to the belay (DFH)

3. 45m (15)
Yet another "brilliant" pitch. From the belay head straight up past 6 more bolts. (A small cam can be found between the 2nd and the 3rd bolt if required) The last part of this pitch has some "brilliant" friction climbing if you stay in the line of bolts. Continue up to where the angle eases and belay at the DFH

4. 35m (15)
Easily up to the overlap on natural gear and to a bolt above on the right hand end. Step up and make thin moves to more natural gear and continue up to belay at the abseil boulder.

And the name!! Well we thought the climb was "Brilliant"
John Morris, Chris Watson, Steve Morris. 10.2.08.

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