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Chockstone Forum - Crag & Route Beta

Crag & Route Beta

Area	Location	Sub Location	Crag	Links
VIC Buffalo	Gorge	(General)	(General)	[ Gorge Guide ]

Topic Date User

Ozymandias and water 24-Jan-2014 At 2:52:21 PM dave h.

Message

On 24/01/2014 One Day Hero wrote:
>On 24/01/2014 dave h. wrote:
>>If I ever do Ozy again, I think I'd use a far-end hauling system.
>>I found hauling over Big Grassy's edge massively inefficient...
>
>What the....? So, instead you'd rap all the way back down and then jug
>back up with 50% of a haul bag hanging off your harness? Jesus, that sounds
>like a lot of work!
>

Clarification: have done this when climbing in a group of three. A leads (with haul line or tag-line), finishes, fixes haul-line to anchor; B seconds and cleans, C jugs the haul line.

>>So it may not work very well at all.
>
>Depends what you're hoping to achieve........if you're attempting to harden
>the fuch up for some epic overseas adventure, this might just do the trick
>

All my aid-climbing experiences have consisted of a tall, cool glass of 'harden up.'

>Hang on! You'll jug all the way back up the pitch with half a haulbag
>on you......and the bloody bag will still only be halfway up!! So you rap
>down again to halfway, then again a quarter of the way, then an eighth?
>This is the worst idea I've ever heard

I believe that you're describing what's colloquially known as Xeno's Method.

The weight of the haul bag is always on the haul line, it is never hanging from your harness. A MiniTrax (or similar) is attached to the haul bag and the haul line is threaded through it. So there's your progress capture. If you need mechanical advantage you can improvise a Z-rig by threading the haul line's tail through a pulley attached to the upper ascender. Resetting the Z-rig is achieved by pushing the ascender up the haul line while jugging.

Hopefully the paragraph above clarifies what I'm talking about. If not I'll dig up a link or something.

I don't really understand the method that you're describing in your last sentence. It definitely sounds stupid, inefficient and boring. In fact, I feel dumber for you having suggested it. :P