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Crag & Route Beta

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VIC Buffalo Gorge (General) (General) [ Gorge Guide ] 

Topic Date User
Ozymandias and water 19-Nov-2003 At 4:48:35 PM IdratherbeclimbingM9
On 14/11/2003 gemmaw wrote:
>We are planning to climb it over 3 days so we figured that is a fair amount
>of water to carry down (and haul up of course) for 3 people. And how much
>have others found they need: 3 litres each per day - too much, not enough?
>Any other suggestions/recommendations about the climb and logistics would
>be greatly appreciated.

Sorry to hijack the thread; to get back on track; ... re logistics-> If you intend hauling 27 litres of water + personal gear, I recommend becoming familiar with the 'Yosemite haul' or Z pulley systems in a controlled environment with loads equal to that which you will actually have.
A wall hauling pulley is very useful or barring that, a 'prusik-minding' pulley. Karabiners as pullies are grievous ... :{

I find the 3 litre clear plastic juice containers with the inbuilt fliptop style carry handle on top (recycle #0) virtually indestructable. Don't use the opaque type containers (recycle #1 or higher) they disintegrate under abusive conditions, and often their screwcaps do not have much thread, so if squashed, ... their lids pop off!

Decide your tactics beforehand.
A team of three should be faster than a team of two, particularly if you have someone leading all the time, with the 2nd ascending the haul line (fixed by the leader at the top belay when they arrive), then belaying and hauling (or leading through), and the 3rd person cleans / assists the haul, particularly if the bag/s get/s stuck.
To facilitate this tactic you will need an additional lead rope, half an additional rack and a light zip-line for the leader to get the cleaned gear to them once they are out from the top belay.

Aid climbing is like watching paint dry (to some people), because it can be so slow to make progress.
If you have not got your system dialled in, then I suggest practising 1st, as you may be surprised by the clusterjams you will inevitably find if you have not done it before, (& even if you have, ... you are still not immune to these creatures!).
For Ozy you will need to be comfortable aiding on gear as thin as #3 RPs. Extras of this size is most advantageous on the pitches leading to Big Grassy.
If you do Ozy Direct you will need a couple of large camming devices or tubechock/s to protect the meat of the final pitch. Metolius #10 or camalot #4.5 is minimum size required, although a #4 Friend with a block of wood will work. There is an excellent article in Rock Magazine (quite a while ago now) on Ozy, its history, gear requirements etc.

Wear comfortable footwear and topstep in your etriers as often as possible, because fewer placements saves time.

Be prepared to wreck your gear and yourselves as wall climbing is hard on gear and can bring out flaws in ones character, not to mention being physically demanding.

Most of all ... have fun.
Despite my ramblings above it is truely an amazing experience and an incredible place to partake of it in.
(It will either cure you of the habit or give you an insatiable lust for more of the same!)

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