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Crag & Route Beta

Area	Location	Sub Location	Crag	Links
International	(General)	(General)	(General)

Topic Date User

Trip advisor Europe 27-Nov-2013 At 12:06:33 PM Neil

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Verdon –agree, it is awesome and will stick in your memory. Albeit often rather frightening ! La Demande is a must.

Ceuse – you could take it or leave it @ grade 25 IMHO, especially given you have plenty of other sport climbing crags on your list.

Piz Badile in the Bregaglia is great fun and based on your memorable routes above, I think you would like it. There is plenty more climbing at the next two huts up the valley and also on the Italian side. (Val de Mello….). We did North Ridge of Piz Badile in ~ 4hours as its mostly pretty easy. Another Day in Paradise looks good too. You might need some spikey stuff if you are there early in the season.

Chamonix – did you get up to the Envers hut ? There is oodles or “sport alpine” climbing from there and it is loooong and excellent. (“Sport Alpine” = trad, but with little approaches where you don’t always need a bag full of spikey stuff, and you can generaly bail anytime by rapping down). Maybe too early in the season though…

If you take you spikey stuff think about the Hornli Ridge on the Matterhorn as it is a fun adventure. And not just for the climbing, the dungeon of the Hornli Hut is not to be missed, nor is hauling up the icey fixed ropes while some French guide with a cigarette slides down them.

Some of the more memorable sport climbing we have done was at the 80’s sport crags (Buoux and Finale – Arco too but haven’t been there). If you are passing I would check them out and by the sounds of it you have plenty of experience to decide if they are worth more time or not.

Some pics and what not for some of the above:

http://kateandneil.smugmug.com/Europe-Climb/European-Alps-2012/25719910_PQCxLz#!i=2126323957&k=F6MHHLM