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Crag & Route Beta

Area	Location	Sub Location	Crag	Links
VIC Grampians	Central	Mt Rosea	(General)	[ Rosea Guide \| Images ]

Topic Date User

Mount Rosea Left Side - Route Location 6-May-2013 At 3:59:38 PM kml

Message

Hi Kieran,
some notes on Coronary Country for the record.

Went to check it out yesterday (hoping to rap down the first pitch to see what sort of protection was on offer and then lead it). So, we climbed up Cream for about 25m(delightful btw) then did a traverse in to a stance immediately (2 or 3m?) below the major roof on CC.

No bolts there (one very rusty carrot a metre or so beneath the stance but certainly nothing worth rapping off). Good natural gear for anchors here (but who would want to leave cams behind for a rap anchor?). Assumed the belay was just over the roof (which would have been about the distance indicated for the first pitch) but an awkward (24) roll onto the ledge above the roof showed a manky rusty pin at foot level to be the only fixed gear.

Went up higher to belay (trad gear). Above was a short, friable and dirty corner. The short corner leads to a roof which leads right a couple of metres to a rusty carrot (no doubt the section of CC that was still be be freed). Rather than head up the unappealing short corner (possibly some shitty wires behind friable flakes) we stepped down right from the belay, moved 2m right to the arete and up this (very nice, similar to the style of climbing on Cream) to rejoin the original line of CC. So, all in all, a 6m variation that gives a much more enjoyable and completly free way up CC.

However, moral of the story, if you want to do the first pitch and then rap off, don't be expecting some good rap bolts - you will need to either a) place your own belay bolts, b) leave some gear or c) finish the route to the top.