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Chockstone Forum - Crag & Route Beta

Crag & Route Beta

Area	Location	Sub Location	Crag	Links
All NSW	(General)	(General)	(General)

Topic Date User

Bulahdelah first timer 8-Apr-2013 At 10:16:36 PM vwills

Message

The access at the moment is tricky without a 15minute walk uphill (a shock to NSW climbersbut not that bad). The rain at the beginning of March has led to major potholes that has swallowed several cars in the last few weeks and it is now advisable to walk most of the fire trail to the main mountain carpark. Having been away the last 6 weeks I didnt realise this and almost lost the Forester into a large hole at midnight on saturday. Apparently Forestry know of this, have other priorities, and are going to close the road, but there is no warning sign as yet.
SO advised current access if coming from Sydney is to turn right into Blanch St, then right into McKenzie. McKenzie does a little bendy thing so go left then right and 400m after getting onto McKenzie turn left at a state Forest sign and drive across a brand new bridge that takes you over the new freeway. It would be advisable to park on the other side of the bridge and walk up the hill as the road rapidly deteriorates. After a short distance on the road the old tramway heads off left and up and is the quickest walk up the mountain, or just stay on the road.
The best climbs at Buladelah are over grade 20, but there are a few areas you can try.
When you get to the cliff head north on the walking track towards lookout. The second major pinnacle you encounter (Lichen Pinnacle) has 2 bolted 18ish routes on its south face that are visible from the track as brushed streaks. They share the same anchors. The routes at Boiler wall that you walk directly past are also in your grade range.

The other wall to try in the area is lookout wall. Keep going towards the lookout and drop down to the left (town side) just before a cutting and keep contouring towards lookout. If you find yourself on stairs heading up to Lookout platform you have gone too far by about 100m. This wall has 11 routes at present from grade 13 to 23(the 23 is the rightmost route).

The Delah walls with Bumble buttress also has a cluster of routes in the 14-24 range. From the mountain car park go straight up the steep hill to the right of the quarry entrance to a saddle. Drop over the ridge then head north and slowly ascend. I think the crag.com has some topos for this area.

You will no doubt get lost and curse me. There is a guide in production but you are too early...
John Wilde is there more than me. Look for the blue Barina outside the bakery at 9am any weekend morning....