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Chockstone Forum - Crag & Route Beta

Crag & Route Beta

Area	Location	Sub Location	Crag	Links
All NSW	(General)	(General)	(General)

Topic Date User

Kaputar - Euglah Rock 22-Jan-2013 At 1:15:04 PM vwills

Message

Neil, there were a lot more bolts at Lindsey- the really offensive bits are the blatant retrobolting, and that has definitely appeared since we were there Oct long weekend 2011.
I'm not convinced its all the same person. There were about 3 newish bolted routes at Lindsey at Easter 2010 but they did not seem to impinge on existing routes or have much to offer in the way of trad protection and they climbed OK. The retrobolting of the routes I all mentioned seemed pretty new. I went there twice last year, in April and October but only visited Lindsey in October.

The Euglah bolting fairy has been going on for a lot longer, but I've not encountered any blatant retrobolts there (except above mentioned start of Fantastic Four, though you then have to still cross that slab without further pro for a while so I dont think the first bolt helps that much...) Some of the bolted aretes make really good routes and the increase in rap stations is generally helpful as a lot of the pines on top got burnt 10 years ago.The old chain belays are pretty manky now. I dont recall any bolts near trad placements. There was no "marking" that I noted as mentioned at the start of the thread, but that couldve occurred recently or I never went to that part.

Climboholic- I do think its better having a considered plan and would prefer the perpetrator to fix their own deeds if that can be arranged. If you have never climbed there than you really arent in the best position to judge (and the guide books are pretty confusing). If you do pull the hangers and hammer in the bolt please patch the hole with glue and rocks/ dirt. And maybe donate the hangers to Pulse so they can be reused.

The sports routes on the left side of the Governor were there in April 2012, but not in 2010. Personally I think an affront to a great wall.

I've tried to see if theres any further info on the Qld site as groups often head there for a trip, but doesnt sound like anyone there has admitted to bolting.