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Chockstone Forum - Crag & Route Beta

Crag & Route Beta

Area	Location	Sub Location	Crag	Links
VIC Buffalo	Gorge	North Side	Wilkinson's Lookout Environs	[ Gorge Guide ]

Topic Date User

to A5 is where its at Tuesday, 22 June 2004 At 10:49:25 AM gfdonc

Message

Hey, great contributions and arguments. Nice to see an interesting thread for a change.

Let me set my intentions clear. I have personally been involved in clean ascents on the North wall including first hammerless ascent of Knocking on Heaven's Door (took 2 attempts, anyone else done that route?). Have also done Ozy Direct without pins but did take a hammer in case (& used it once to 'seat' a 5 RP on one move on p3). I think I own a rurp somewhere (former keychain) and a lost arrow (former nut key) but that's about it.

The question was, should aiding on pitons, in the style of the first ascent, be condoned? Most contributors think not, and personally I agree, but I also expect there will be some who think otherwise and can justify their actions.
The Copperhead road example complicates things. Maybe one day it will be done in better style, but would anyone today decry someone for hammering it?
- Steve