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Chockstone Forum - Crag & Route Beta

Crag & Route Beta

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VIC Buffalo Gorge North Side Wilkinson's Lookout Environs [ Gorge Guide ] 

Topic Date User
to A5 is where its at 22-Jun-2004 At 10:49:25 AM gfdonc
Hey, great contributions and arguments. Nice to see an interesting thread for a change.

Let me set my intentions clear. I have personally been involved in clean ascents on the North wall including first hammerless ascent of Knocking on Heaven's Door (took 2 attempts, anyone else done that route?). Have also done Ozy Direct without pins but did take a hammer in case (& used it once to 'seat' a 5 RP on one move on p3). I think I own a rurp somewhere (former keychain) and a lost arrow (former nut key) but that's about it.

The question was, should aiding on pitons, in the style of the first ascent, be condoned? Most contributors think not, and personally I agree, but I also expect there will be some who think otherwise and can justify their actions.
The Copperhead road example complicates things. Maybe one day it will be done in better style, but would anyone today decry someone for hammering it?
- Steve

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