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Chockstone Forum - Crag & Route Beta

Crag & Route Beta

Area	Location	Sub Location	Crag	Links
All NSW	(General)	(General)	(General)

Topic Date User

Kaputar - Euglah Rock 11-Jan-2013 At 8:32:29 PM vwills

Message

I was out at Kaputar in October this year and note there has been a steady increase in bolts in the last 3 years. I am not against bolts per se and think the increased number of rap stations especailly at Euglah and Lindsey rocks to be advantageous to protect the stunted growth on both plateaus. It also lets people toprope routes they are not confident leading. However there seems to be an increase in "filler" routes- bolting rock just because it is blank, and a large amount of retrobolting has gone on, especially at Lindsey. There is nothing I can find as to a guide for these.

Rumours I hear are its someone fro North America who visits annually and is obviouslly isnt short of a dollar or two. However the large amount of new anchors atop the very easy routes at Lindsey and a well worn track to that area make me think that locals may be responsible for that area? Anyone have further knowledge?

With specific comments- Euglah has some good bolted routes and direct starts to old crack routes, but I didnt go round the south side. Old routes are already marked with white paint and initials (though very hard to see in places). Chiselling grades is pretty lame. As noted this is national park!

Lindsey has unfortunately had heaps of routes retrobolted. I recall leading Pork Orgy, 21, when it was run out and scary with only 2 carrots and it was quite memorable. Now it has expansions every few metres and is just another average sports route. It was always easily topropeable (even without the new anchors). Several other filler routes have been done which are pretty average and other routes retrobolted into submission. Fortunately the 2 trad cracks, Mistaken and Misled have been left alone and though I'd done them before are by far the most memorable and best routes at the crag (though the 22 arete between them is still old school and memorable with its old bolts- long live this route in its current state!) I wonder whether Ian Brown has ever been contacted about this situation??

The Governor has a few more rap stations which isnt too bad, but some new sports climbs are up near the left hand end of the cliff. (I felt compelled to do them before passing judgement) and I dont think they add anything to the crag. In such an obvious place it could well have done without these routes.

Better go, computer making photophobia worse. A week before I leave for South America and end up in hospital with viral meningitis! It sucks lying in a dark room.