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Chockstone Forum - Crag & Route Beta

Crag & Route Beta

Area	Location	Sub Location	Crag	Links
VIC Buffalo	The Horn Environs	(General)	Dreamworld	[ Horn Guide ]

Topic Date User

Dreamworld - New Route or Variant? 15-Nov-2012 At 11:06:03 AM pecheur

Message

On 15/11/2012 kieranl wrote:
>On 14/11/2012 gfdonc wrote:
>>Don't take this as a criticism of TDAID. If anything I'm critical of
>>the existing routes, as TDAID is a direct and obvious line, just needed
>>some effort and expense to equip it.
>Coming back to this this morning.
>Those climbs were a product of their times and criticising them now for
>not having been bolted is a bit odd. Looking at the photos of the FA of
>Dead Heart earlier in the thread it's obvious that there was quite a lot
>of gear. It wasn't brilliant gear but it was there. At the time it was
>pretty hard to justify bolting it, whereas nowadays I wouldn't hesitate
>to get out the drill.

I don't think Steve's criticising the first ascents, he's already admitted that hand drilling granite isn't much fun, probably more that nothing's been done in the decades in between (and no Kieran I'm not implying it should be done by the FAs).

Thinking about this again, when I climbed using the new bolts I almost climbed passed the second bolt before being told by my belayer and clipped it at my crotch height, which indicates to me the second bolt is too low (admittedly as I was looking up whilst climbing I thought the third bolt was a little high for a second bolt). I probably agree with Steve in that at least with the bolting issue five bolts would have been plenty, four I'd have to re-climb to think about, and it's definitely more sustained than TINOL.