I recently belayed a friend on this. Impressively it was his 4th trad lead in about 12 years (the other three having been completed that morning with the likes of Agamemnon/Muldoon etc). The point is – he was well-scared – yet still managed to place 2 pieces in the roof – one being a small (bomber) Alien out on the lip. Recommended for safety if you’re really brickin’ it (as he was) – but the rope drag is utterly horrendous. It’s also worth pointing out that he had the strength to pull it off (placing gear in the roof that is) – even after foot-freeing most of it. Note: Small cams will also save you scaring yourself on the initial wall (and save you time).