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Crag & Route Beta

Area	Location	Sub Location	Crag	Links
All TAS	(General)	(General)	(General)

Topic Date User

Tasmania 21-Sep-2012 At 3:58:28 PM Cam McKenzie

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Mt Wellington is awesome, but depending on your crack climbing / dolerite experience, you'll probably find the grades sandbags. As a general rule, anything under grade 17 is going to involve an offwidth or a chimney. Best climbing starts at 18+. Also, it may still be pretty cold up there.

Tasman peninsula is awesome and has a huge variety of stuff to do, but most of the good stuff is > 20. The Candle Stick is awesome at grade 16 - 18 depending on which way you go, but this has got epic written all over it, so maybe not.

Freycinet has the best easy climbing in the state (and some of the best hard climbing too at the star factory). White water wall, harlequin buttress, lassies wall etc all have good stuff on them. White water wall in particular has some great routes in the teens. If you're up for a bit more adventure there are some great moderate long routes on the Hazards, though they may start stretching your < 1hr approach. Japhlion (16) is very good (if you don't mind runout slabs), and has a fun approach along he sea level traverse. Stud City (19) is absolutely awesome (other than the last jungle bash pitch).

Ben Lomond has lots of good stuff in the 18-20 range, but again, if you and your partner are not crack climbers, then there's potential for epics. Approach is a bit variable as well depending on which way you go over the scree.

Never climbed in the gorge at Launceston, so I can't comment. Hillwood is ok, but if I was on an interstate road trip, I wouldn't bother personally. Lots of people love it though.

Ultimately though, I'd just go to Waterworks and Freuhauf in Hobart and leave the rack at home.