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Chockstone Forum - Crag & Route Beta

Crag & Route Beta

Area	Location	Sub Location	Crag	Links
All NSW	(General)	(General)	(General)

Topic Date User

Rings on 15-Aug-2012 At 8:25:29 AM Nick Clow

Message

The question, ODH, wasn't which style is more 'sensible', it was which is better. Which, btw, you don't seem to be arguing with.

As it happens, I am familiar with Hungry Eyes - one of the cracks on Windjammer Wall. About 10 or 11 years ago, this was graded 22 (haha). 22 was about my onsight grade at the time, and having worked up through the 20s, 21s and 22s etc at the Point, I jumped on this to try and onsight it. Being tall I couldn't really contort myself to get a rest in that section under the crux, but I got a nut in and went for it. Naturally I fell off. And I took a load more falls before sketching through the crux and getting to the top.

I was buzzed at what a fantastic route it is (still am). I went back 2 weeks later to give it another lash. My plan was to take less gear on the basis of trying to go fast and light... and I duly took the winger off it. I also happened to scare myself a lot because I didn't take enough gear with me and it was one of those glorious spoodgy days at the Point when the rock itself was practically sweating.

After that I accepted it was too hard for me. I have always thought about going back and maybe still will do, as it would be more within the ambit of my ability now. It has never occurred to me to rap down and 'clean the holds' (because it's just SO sandy with runoff, right? *Bullshit*) or to top-rope it either. I would prefer not to climb it rather than use these tactics.

WIth regard to 2), the hypothetical route in the Gramps, I'll go for a) please Eddy.

And, like you, I couldn't care less how people climb routes.

Just don't tell me that top rope rehearsal trumps ground-up.