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Chockstone Forum - Crag & Route Beta

Crag & Route Beta

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Topic Date User
Rings on 8-Aug-2012 At 3:08:57 PM Macciza
It sounds like you struck good balance on Tote given what's been said - but it is quite different to the crux discussion here of retro bolting old routes.
So perhaps the question for you is how would you feel if someone put extra in-between rings on the Tote - Most probably with out consultation.
Or Imagine that someone went and stuck 5 rings on Turinga or Common Knowledge in order to make it 'safe' and 'climbable', so people could finally climb it.

I try to go ground up as much as possible - sometimes it is bloody hard/terrifying, sometimes I don't know if it is even possible - sometimes I back-off.
Sometimes I decide to rap something to see if it might go on gear or if it needs bolts - sometimes i decide that it does not need bolts but might be a bit dangerous
Generally I try to put in as few bolts as I can whilst maintaining safety appropriate to the grade - 18 territory on a 22 does not necessarily need protection

The most important thing is that you are open, honest and able to account for yourself truthfully - don't rap inspect/pre-place and then say you went ground up.
Sometimes I might inspect/preplace because I don't want to die - I am not crazy. Sometimes it really piss's me off to find I should have just committed.
But there is a huge difference to climbing something for the first time and climbing something that is a known quantity and you know has been climbed.
Take Shai Hulud I knew I could climb it because it was within my onsight ability - to have a done it as a first ascent i would probably want to be climbing way harder

So with existing routes that may have been put up in 'less than ideal' circumstances for whatever reason can still be climbed in a better fashion, - ground up, onsight . .
And there are climbers who appreciate and pursue some of these rather limited types of climbs and seek to climb them in good style, in the knowledge that they can be successful
It would be absolutely amazing for some one to truly onsight Rage this Season or do Age of Reason in original WB style - don't destroy that possibility.

Bottom line is - the bolts on Risque(Risk-Gay) This Season ( the retro bolted pale imitation of Age of Reason) WILL be removed soon.
It would be really good if the person who put them there could own up and explain there actions and then do the removal work themselves.
Dangerous and runout climbs are a very limited resource for those who actually partake of them - we don't destroy safe routes, so leave ours alone.

PS Any one got a contact number on Weigand, would love to hear his take on it all - pretty much sure that WB thinks this retro bolting is all BS

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