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Crag & Route Beta

Area	Location	Sub Location	Crag	Links
All NSW	(General)	(General)	(General)

Topic Date User

change in access to cosmic county/freezer nsw 29-Feb-2012 At 11:03:55 AM Climboholic

Message

On 28/02/2012 dangermouth wrote:
>ODH you know what boom boxes do to NSW sandstone. Take it easy out there

The thought of a cliff disintegrating with a bit of heavy base made me laugh.

We did 'I Had a Dream' on the weekend (from the front cover of the guide). We abseiled in and saw what appeared to be a good ledge a few meters below the anchors which were a hanging belay. So decided to abseil down and belay from there.

All was going fine until it was my turn to climb. A hold broke off as I was cleaning the belay and I fell another 3-4 meters with rope stretch, to a point where the cliff was undercut and vegitated. After a lot of struggling and swearing I eventually managed to get back up to the anchors. It seemed a couple of grades harder than the rest of the route but I didn't have a choice because was below our abseil rope.

As I climbed past the ledge I put a bit of pressure on a block of rock and it literally disintergrated into a pile of dust. I was astounded that it could have held it's shape one moment then and suddenly turn to dust in an instant.

It was like something you'd see in a Vampire movie where the whole thing just instantly disintergrates into a pile of dust!

Moral of the story: If you do 'I Had a Dream' put up with the discomfort of the hanging belay and don't go down to the ledge from hell with the Vampire rocks!