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Crag & Route Beta

Area	Location	Sub Location	Crag	Links
All NSW	(General)	(General)	(General)

Topic Date User

Sweet Dreams alternate finish 15-Feb-2012 At 3:17:08 PM Climboholic

Message

On 15/02/2012 strerror wrote:
>Actually you did also mention araps, which as ODH has pointed out in his
>own way, is a bit offtopic as frankly going to araps for a pleasant multipitch
>climb for a sydneysider is a little unrealistic.
>Something that I think you're also not taking into account about sweat
>dreams is the setting. The setting is simply stunning and that, combined
>with comparatively good rock, and a bit of slab climbing, a traverse, vertical
>and a touch of overhang (ie varied climbing) make the route a classic to
>me.

As ODH said, there is tons of really good stuff in the Blueys. So why does Sweet Dreams get so many stars in the guidebook? My comparison with Araps was only to point out that it wouldn't even rate a mention at a place where there are good moderate grade climbs.

I agree, the setting is nice. But the slab climbing; yawn, the traverse; a boring scramble at grade 2 and the overhang; where? The only good pitch is the alternate finish which is harder than the rest of the climb and not worth the walk in and the other 3-4 pitches. It's possible to have fun on low grade multipitches, but Sweet Dreams is not it.

The Blue Mountains is a world class climbing area and the guidebook is selling it short by giving Sweet Dreams so many stars.

... But then again, my opinion of the climb could be tainted by the fact that I was holding back diarrhoea for the last two pitches the first time I climbed it (not sure if that was a reaction to bad food or the climb).