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Chockstone Forum - Crag & Route Beta

Crag & Route Beta

Area	Location	Sub Location	Crag	Links
All NSW	(General)	(General)	(General)

Topic Date User

Sweet Dreams alternate finish 13-Feb-2012 At 2:53:10 PM Climboholic

Message

I did it again late last year and I agree that it is weird having two lines bolted so close together on the last pitch of a lower grade climb.

Although, I think the new route up the face (joining the 'arête route' half way up), is the more natural line. The first time I climbed Sweet Dreams I stuck to the arête, but I kept wanting to push out right. It felt contrived and consequently I didn't enjoy it. Unfortunately, the re-bolter probably left the arête route bolted for posterity (regardless of the climb's quality and the mess of bolts up there).

IMHO the whole route is massively overrated. Good marketing by whoever convinced people it is a classic. Don't the Bluies have any better easy multi-pitch than Sweet Dreams?

(Before anyone points out the contradiction of doing it twice: I got dragged along with a group of beginners)