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Crag & Route Beta

Area	Location	Sub Location	Crag	Links
All NSW	(General)	(General)	(General)

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R arete Old Baldy Upper 6-Dec-2011 At 10:03:53 AM Benm

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UPRISING (20) 110m *** (old rating system) ***** (new rating system) ****** (newest rating system)

Climbs one of the most prominent natural lines in the valley - the oft eyed right arête of Old Baldy. Weaves its way up on both sides of arête. The climbing is exposed and mostly on good rock – given that it is Old Baldy. Well protected with many glued carrots (take 20 bolt plates), a couple of fixed threads, cams (take #.75- #4), spikes, bollards, and a couple of large wires. Take a heap of draws and 6-10 single slings. Use double ropes. Belays are equipped for abseil descent.

If approaching from the top, the first abseil/belay anchor is just below the cliff-top level, on the L of the arête (looking out). As a 60m rope won’t make it from the top to the P2/3 anchors (allowing you to cut out the short rap to P3/4 belay), you will need to rap to each of the belay/rap points in order. On the last rap, make sure you swing around to the R side of the arête to reach the belay at start of P2.

Start: 20m R of Scimitar, beneath undercut arête.

1. 15m Climb onto block leaning against cliff 3m L of arête. Use fixed rope to gain ledge under roof, walk R to pillar that forms R end of ledge. Clip U bolt and do a few moves of jiggery pokery using another U and in-place sling, to get past fresh air and heinous choss to DUB belay at foot of slab.

2. (19) 25m L up steep, juggy breaks to arête. Up L side then R to large break and move back L to belay station.

3. (20) 50m Up on L side for 3 m, until steepening forces you R. Up steeply, first on R side of arête for 20m, then a bit on L, then back R until large horizontal break. Tricky move off break leads past 4 bolts on R side, to blocky ledge. Belay station on L of arête.

4. (19) 20m Up 2m above belay, step R at block and up R to final steepening on L. DUB belay on R.

Brad Carmady/Ben Maddison November 2011