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Crag & Route Beta

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Topic Date User

Inspiring Routes Southern France/Northern Italy 15-Sep-2011 At 9:21:41 AM Cam McKenzie

Message

Mr Bones,
I climbed Don Quixote on the Marmolada in July this year. We did it in pretty average conditions (it had snowed 2 days earlier and the max for the day at 3000m was 0 degrees), but it was an awesome adventure. The climbing is pretty scrappy in lots of places (lots of ramps and a few chimneys), but once you get past the half way ledge it's all good. I think it's probably better to start up Schalbenschwanz (no idea if that's how you spell it, The Swallow's Tail in English anyway), and follow this to the half way ledge, then go up Don Quixote from there.

There's heaps of fixed pegs on the route, but not trusting vintage pitons, we placed a lot of gear also. The guides mention being able to bivy in the lift stations if you miss the last cable car (which we did), but the middle station at least was completely closed up, so we had to bivy in a small concrete hut thing which strangely had the 2 doors bolted open. Wasn't a pleasant night, but it was ok. You could walk down relatively easily but you don't end up anywhere near your car and would have to hitch (or walk 6-7km) to get back there.

The harder routes on the Marmolada look much better (doing this route was meant to be a warmup for Tempi Moderni, but we didn't get another shot at it with the weather) climbing, but are pretty serious. Also, the grades seem to be pretty sandbagged in the guide. Tempi Moderni is listed as 6c but is considered more like 7a/7a+ by everyone I've spoken to about it.

The Tre Cime look amazing, and everyone I've spoken too reckons that the Comici route is one of the best routes they've done. It's meant to be an absolute circus on there, so start early and stay in front. Even the popular routes in the Dolomites have lots of loose shit on them.

If you need any more Marmolada beta, drop me a PM.

Have fun.
Cam