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Crag & Route Beta

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Topic Date User

Freycinet 10-Sep-2011 At 12:21:45 PM rolsen1

Message

On 10/09/2011 Wendy wrote:
>On 9/09/2011 phillipivan wrote:
>
>>
>>Having a small trad rack would make building TR anchors much easier though.
>>
>
>Would you want to climb on a trad anchor set up by someone who cannot
>lead trad?
>

That is what I did, and first did it at Freycinet, and I think Light Fingered Madison was the first route we top roped. We also climbed at lassies wall and a couple of other walls. We had already done heaps of top roping using trees and bolts at the local Hobart crags. I bought 2 & 3 HB quad cams and a bunch of wires and off we went.

In some ways I think learning to place gear by top roping is a great (but very slow) way to learn to place trad. There is nothing that makes you trust your placements more than rapping off them.

Obviously you want to look into the theory of placing trad, maybe get a good book or use the web. But if you build the anchors with your partner making sure you have 3 good placements, make sure one of you weights/jumps on the ropes while the other one checks to see how the gear is weighted.

btw, there are some moderate sport routes around the inland crags like grace lands, I think.