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Chockstone Forum - Crag & Route Beta

Crag & Route Beta

Area	Location	Sub Location	Crag	Links
VIC Northwest	Black Hill	(General)	(General)	[ Black Hill Guide \| Images ]

Topic Date User

Black Hill Bouldering 5-May-2011 At 7:09:35 PM richb

Message

Hi r-man,

If you can find the Rock mag article its quite useful as it has a photo of Nick Sutter's problem The Beast With Two Backs V10, which is probably one of the best hard problems on the hill. Its easy to find with the photo and map!

Otherwise, head to Kyneton, take the second exit, round the roundabout and back over freeway and follow Edgecomb Rd until you get to Ennis Road, turn right and park at the end. You can see the Hill as you drive along so its pretty easy. When I boulder there, I usually follow the circuit track to the right then take the first left, a narrow track that heads up the hill.

Just as you turn left there's a neat boulder with a nice easier problem.

Keep going up the track a little and if you head right off the track and straight up the hill, there's is a heap of large boulders with hard problems, most of which have probably never been climbed! this is where I usually go, the rock is mostly good and you're away from the track so its fairly quiet.

If you keep going up the track to the top of the hill, Beast is off to your left as I recall.

There are problems all over the hill, and its a reasonably compact area. If you are looking for hard problems you should find quite a few. The rock can be really coarse and grainy and tough on the tips. I live just down the road but usually end up going up to Mt Alexander. In fact its been several years since I've bouldered there, I've got 8+ projects in mind that will all be really good. Please let us know what you get done! Beast With Two Backs should definitely be on your list if its in your range.

I'm super busy this weekend, when are you thinking you'll be there? I might squeeze in a visit.

When you're done, the best coffee in Kyneton is at Inner Biscuit. Head to Piper Street and its next door to the nursery. You'll know Piper Street, its full of tourists in Euro SUV's. The Royal George hotel has a nice bar for a post boulder ale, and the Indian restaurant in Piper St, Dhaba, is bloody good! Also, in Woodend, Holgate's Pub has great beers too.

Enjoy, and let us know how you get on!

richb