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Chockstone Forum - Crag & Route Beta

Crag & Route Beta

Area	Location	Sub Location	Crag	Links
All NSW	(General)	(General)	(General)

Topic Date User

Shackles and the sheriff of Shipley 21-Apr-2011 At 8:38:35 PM rolsen1

Message

I'm glad I don't live in NSW

>>door to her (and on the corner of the street) the older gentleman neighbour
>>had a number of fruit trees (mostly citrus) which he tended to and he

This example is rubbish as the neighbour owned the trees, when you bolt, rebolt or install anchors you are doing this for the benefit of the climbing community you don't own them. Yes I agree there are certain are social norms, and we should act in the best interest of others but you don't own the bolts. If you're not happy to donate your bolts/anchors to the climbing community then don't bolt.

On 21/04/2011 Cranky wrote:
>I had led the route and threaded the shackles, then lowered off and belayed
>the second, and then the second lowered off. Wrong, now I know.

This seems fine to me, assuming the (non-confident) second is not dogging over having multiple goes then I can't see how we expect the leader to lower off quick draws, belay the climber up then re-climb the climb! If the leader rapped in the first place then the wear on the anchors would be similar to the preferred method.