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Chockstone Forum - Crag & Route Beta

Crag & Route Beta

Area Location Sub Location Crag Links
All NSW (General) (General) (General)  

Poll Option Votes Graph
Yes 37
86% 
No 6
14% 

Topic Date User
Nowra Guide Book 1-Feb-2011 At 11:22:18 PM hangdog
Message

>That's a fairly warped view of australian climbing history!
>
>Carrigan, Claw, Shepards et al were far removed from bearded conservatives
>by the late 70's........they were rap-bolting, dogging, and wearing lycra
>at least as early as anyone else in the world. 'Sport crags' such as Mt.
>York and Cosmic were more or less the same deal as Thompson's in its first
>incarnation, and predated it by 10yrs. Glenn Tempest invented the Gallery
>as a sport crag at the same time that Nowra was going up. Canberra climbers
>such as Law-Smith, Carter, Barten, and Bull were doing hard sport routes
>in the ACT and Bungonia before Nowra was invented.
>
>Nowra didn't represent any sort of leap forward in climbing style, just
>a slight extension of what was pioneered in the 80's.

Here we go again!!

Mt York and Cosmic where not even close to what Thompsons Point was or is. It was such a different scene down there. They were bolting cracks for Fu...ks sake. Everything was bolted. Yes they didnt invent sport climbing but they definately created a sport crag. Thompsons Point and surrounds was really the first pure (probably not the best term) sport crag.
And yes most of the climbing population were bearded trad conservatives who viewed bolted routes with contempt and certainly(at the time) didnt like what was happening in Nowra.

There are 81 replies to this topic.

 

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