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Crag & Route Beta

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Topic Date User

First trad lead recommendations at Araps? 12-Apr-2011 At 10:55:52 AM Climboholic

Message

On 12/04/2011 vonClimb wrote:
>On 11/04/2011 gfdonc wrote:
>>On 11/04/2011 PDRM wrote:
>>more background they seconded Tannin clean (and looking comfortable)
>the
>>other weekend so climbs in the 10-12 grade should be ok.
>
>I don't think it matters what grade he can second or top rope. As wendy
>says its about the process. I think it is important to get practice placing
>gear and coming to grips with important aspects of lead climbing (rope
>drag, placing gear in a good position etc) on a nice EASY climb. Putting
>them on a harder climb that has a couple tricky moves or difficult gear
>placements will only compound their difficulties.

I have to go against the consensus and disagree with Wendy. The climber should know the process before doing their first lead. If they are comfortably seconding high teens then a first lead in the low teens is fine. You want a first lead to be memorable. If you put them on something they could solo, placing gear will seem pointless and they'll lose interest.

My first lead was Muldoon. Plenty of gear, easy to place and steep enough for a clean fall if it came to that.

Let the objections begin...