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Chockstone Forum - Crag & Route Beta

Crag & Route Beta

Area	Location	Sub Location	Crag	Links
VIC Eastern	Teneriffe	(General)	(General)	[ Teneriffe Guide ]

Topic Date User

Claudia Rising 4-Jan-2011 At 7:58:37 PM Rolsen1

Message

On 4/01/2011 Fish Boy wrote:
>Did this the other week with paz.
>
>What's the deal with the two cleaned streaks?
>
>There is a direct start which I assume goes under the roof and straight
>up meeting with the belay. Normal start begins further left, tends right
>then goes? In the guide picture of the 1st ascent, it seems the climber
>is heading into direct start territory above the roof, to far right to
>go up what I assume is the normal start.

It's been a few years since we've been there but I thought the photo was of the original line and the bit we reckon is the crux, just after the first travse where you need to step up and right?

There is a clean streak that goes straight up from the middle (memory) of the traverse and goes directly to the belay. The normal line starts left goes up for 3 metres traverses right for 4 or 5 goes up where the photo is, then turns slabby to head diagonally back left. I reckon the pitch is a ripper.

We didn't take gear for the second pitch and I ended up diving for the gully when the bolts ran out and I got scared.

>
>What we did was harder than 20....

I thought 20 is about right but it's always hard to tell with slabs.