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Crag & Route Beta

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Margarine ridge

aarond

20-Dec-2010
12:46:56 PM

So i did Margarine Ridge the other day, was a bit of an epic... the 20m walks through bush add alot of time between each pitch on the final 6 pitches i think it was, but made it back safely to the car at 22:00

On the 8th pitch belay, there's notes about the very bad belay in the cave with a bad thread etc etc. anyway i was sitting in the cave and noticed just as the sun was setting that there was a ray of light that went through a hole, showing the way to a bomber thread. So you needs 100+cm long sling and a dyneema one would help as its only a small hole, and maybe a poking stick.

reach deep inside to the back right hand corner of the cave (facing in) and you may get lucky and find it. pretty much turns the most dangerous part of the climb to the safest part of the climb.

pmonks

20-Dec-2010
5:38:52 PM

Except for the first time I did it, I've always blasted straight up the wide corner above the chimney, which means you can link those two pitches and bypass the belay in the cave altogether. The corner is rather intimidating, but actually not too hard, just make sure you're on the lookout for bomber small/medium gear in pockets before committing to the corner, since there isn't much pro through the wide section.

[edit] What'd you think of the climb overall?

aarond

21-Dec-2010
11:29:13 AM

we did look at that, and the guide said some people go that way but I'm not the biggest fan of chimneys at the best of times, so i was glad to get out of it.

was a pretty good climb, has been the most adventurous route ive done so far so was good, i dont think we ever really got off route either.
there was a lot of loose rock (that was wet too) which i think made it feel a bit harder than it actually was.

the only thing i didnt like was the walking through bush between most pitches, which is inevitable but overall was a good adventure.

ampedandwired

21-Dec-2010
3:49:57 PM

I remember finding some OK cams at the far left of that cave (facing out) right down at your feet. Been a while so my memory is a bit hazy, but think I was happy enough with these and didn't even bother with the "bad thread". Chimney looked too intimidating at the time, but might have to give it a go next time, would certainly make a somewhat more direct (nicer?) finish.

Hayds13

21-Dec-2010
4:17:08 PM

Before the crux move in the chimney at about 2/3 the pitch there’s a horizontal number 5 camalot placement on the right wall just under a roof. You kinda step right and plug it in, extend it with a double sling then go back and make the move. Ha, my first chocky post! Might have to start climbing again…

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