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Crag & Route Beta

Area	Location	Sub Location	Crag	Links
VIC Arapiles	(General)	(General)	(General)	[ Arapiles Guide \| Arapiles Images ]

Topic Date User

Jenny Wren 11-Nov-2010 At 10:59:11 PM robertsonja

Message

On 10/11/2010 simey wrote:
>On 10/11/2010 robertsonja wrote:
>>Another half dozen of your bolts that need chopping.
>
>I would much rather read your posts if you were capable of presenting
>some rational argument.

The fact that an Arapiles climb has been “post published retro bolted”, which could be a first, probably negates all rational discussion.

At the time of your writings, such a decision to retro bolt was based from a 20 year memory, things change over two decades, and because you had now published your writings you were forced into a position to go out bolting. That is the thing with “post published retro bolted” climbs, probably not the best methodology.

Sometimes we can forget the purpose of a guidebook.

There was no consultation with any audience nor the FA.

You had heard of no one repeating the route, it most certainly has been repeated, and bold is bold.

The original line stepped R to find pro. There is nothing wrong with stepping R to find gear, I do it all the time, sometimes I even step L (hehehe). That is the thing with trad, the line can often be determined by the pro. Not all the climbs at Arapiles have to be bolted into straight affairs, nor bolted into safe protected affairs, nor straight safe protected lines. The outcome of climbing such a line is now so much more predictable.

Now we have a line on natural gear, Quo Vadis, that can step R onto a “post published retro bolted” line. Not of our trad lines should have to compete for real estate with 21st century bolted lines, especially “post published retro bolted” climbs.

The new bolts on the arête now determines where the climber shall climb, where as a climber would have followed whatever natural line was pleasing.

The two new bolts at the direct start, more retro steel…..

And now there are bolts at the top, another retro bolted belay