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Crag & Route Beta

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VIC Grampians Central Mt Rosea (General) [ Rosea Guide | Images ]

Author

Heretic

foreverabumbly

11-Oct-2010
12:29:37 PM

Hi guys, Im thinking of heading up to do this (Heretic), was just wondering on what peoples thoughts are on this climb; the grade ranges from 16 to 17 depending on the source. How is the route finding and gear? We are planning to bivvy on it, so is there a ledge possible for this?

Or alternatively some other picks in this vacinity that are on or below 17/18?

cheers

gfdonc

11-Oct-2010
12:59:47 PM

On 11/10/2010 foreverabumbly wrote:
>Hi guys, Im thinking of heading up to do this (Heretic), was just wondering
>on what peoples thoughts are on this climb; the grade ranges from 16 to
>17 depending on the source. How is the route finding and gear?
All good. It's been a while, but I recall some rattly flakes on pitch 2 that take wires. Avoid placing behind anything that sounds too hollow.

>We are planning
>to bivvy on it, so is there a ledge possible for this?
LOL! Yes at the end of pitch 3 I think (the layback then steep corner) I recall a decent size ledge, might not be flat though. End of pitch 2 is a sloping ledge that would be horrible.

>Or alternatively some other picks in this vacinity that are on or below
>17/18?

Yes, Heretic!
The argument about the grade is more about its sustained nature - personally I don't think any move is 17 but the route is sustained.
Diane is great too.
The Last Rites is awesome, it says 19 but it's only one move of well-protected 19: "obl. 18".

Cam McKenzie

11-Oct-2010
1:00:55 PM

Cool route, though I reckon Diane (18 just to the right of it) is a much better route. From memory gear is good on both routes and route finding isn't much of an issue. Don't think there are any ledges you could bivy on though.

kieranl

11-Oct-2010
8:18:39 PM

I don't quite understand why you'd want to spoil a classic climb by hauling bivvy gear up it, but whatever.
However could you reconsider using one of Australia's great climbs to practise your bivvy skills?
As the other posts indicate, there's not a great deal of ledge real-estate and, if you're staying up there overnight you'll probably be looking to take a dump at some point. In my book, planning on taking a dump on the belay of a classic climb is a bit anti-social. It's one thing to get caught short on a climb, another to basically plan to do it. So, unless you've got well-trained bowels, large corks or poop-pipe could you shift your bivvying plans to a less-popular area? Maybe one of the routes down the left end : there's some big ledges on The Stinger or a less-popular cliff : Green Gap, Mt Frederick, The Chimney Pots?

foreverabumbly

11-Oct-2010
9:09:33 PM

On 11/10/2010 kieranl wrote:
>I don't quite understand why you'd want to spoil a classic climb by hauling
>bivvy gear up it, but whatever.
>However could you reconsider using one of Australia's great climbs to
>practise your bivvy skills?
>As the other posts indicate, there's not a great deal of ledge real-estate
>and, if you're staying up there overnight you'll probably be looking to
>take a dump at some point. In my book, planning on taking a dump on the
>belay of a classic climb is a bit anti-social. It's one thing to get caught
>short on a climb, another to basically plan to do it. So, unless you've
>got well-trained bowels, large corks or poop-pipe could you shift your
>bivvying plans to a less-popular area? Maybe one of the routes down the
>left end : there's some big ledges on The Stinger or a less-popular cliff
>: Green Gap, Mt Frederick, The Chimney Pots?

ha!

Its for a uni trip, so take your concerns up with them on area selection. And I will be taking a poo tube.

kieranl

11-Oct-2010
9:26:55 PM

On 11/10/2010 foreverabumbly wrote:

>Its for a uni trip, so take your concerns up with them on area selection.
You presented it as your idea so I took it up with you. What do you expect? Until you mentioned it as a "get out of jail" clause I had no idea anyone else was involved. Take the issue back to your uni club (whatever it is) if you so wish.
>And I will be taking a poo tube.
Good stuff.

There are 6 messages in this topic.