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26-Sep-2005 11:00:43 AM
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Having thrashed around in the mud on Beauwolf. I was wondering if anyone had some beta on seepage issues at Buffalo after rain. Here is my intended ticklist, if you know of one (particularly the multipitches) that suffer from seepage can you let me know. Thanks Dudes.
BTW: Whats the go with camping before November, do the rangers look the other way if we let them know? Should we ask or will we be tipping them off?
The Horn
Big Fun 15 25m
Bonaparte 16, 122m
Runnel of Love 18, 45m
This is not your land 20 15m
Peroxide Blonde 21 30m
The Gorge Sth Side
Banana Blaze 16 30m
Coming up for air 20 30m
Home James 20 30m
Comandander Cody 21 30m
The Cathedral
Maharajah 17 42m
The Hump
The initiation 18, 97m
Beg Borrow or Steal 19 60m
Also, if your looking for an excuse to get up to buffalo in the next three weekends I plan on being up there trying to work off some winter love handles.
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26-Sep-2005 11:11:44 AM
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You listed The Initiation as a climb you wanted to do....my favorite climb at Buff!
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26-Sep-2005 11:37:21 AM
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You should be pretty right with that list for minimal seepage. Obvious caveat; not if its raining / rained heavy in last 24 hrs.
>camping before Nov
I have asked NP persons re Catani in the past and been knocked back. They recommended commercial campgrounds down off the mtn.
Although you know I can't condone it, a friend of mine told me that they have bivouaced successfully in the past by timing carefully and choosing discreetly.
You are local enough that day trips should not be an issue?
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26-Sep-2005 5:36:43 PM
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Yes I am definatley local enough for day trips (Though at the recently inflated $40 a pop!).
It's more about the access to the Horn, Dreamworld and the Great Wall and me being too lazy to walk the 6kms uphill with my rack and rope (sometimes a 10.5mm x 70m is not such a good idea) twice on the one weekend. As you can see it features on my ticklist.
Your probably right about just heading back down the mountain, I guess I'll just have to toughen up.
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26-Sep-2005 11:14:30 PM
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On 26/09/2005 dan wrote:
>The Horn
>Big Fun 15 25m - No worries
>Bonaparte 16, 122m - Don't think I've done it
>Runnel of Love 18, 45m - can't remember
>This is not your land 20 15m - No worries
>Peroxide Blonde 21 30m - No worries - but it doesn't need water to make it slippery!
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>The Gorge Sth Side
>Banana Blaze 16 30m - Sometimes seeps towards the top near that wee overlap
>Coming up for air 20 30m - I think this stays dry most of the time
>Home James 20 30m - Seeps like crazy down low - even in mid summer
>Comandander Cody 21 30m - Can be wet early on or after sig' rain, but dries quickly
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>The Cathedral
>Maharajah 17 42m - Never had seepage on this one, though have had it on 1st pitch of Sultan.
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>The Hump
>The initiation 18, 97m - No worries
>Beg Borrow or Steal 19 60m - Don't know
Almost all of the plateau dries super quickly, it's down in the gorge where you have to pick your lines after rain - though so saying, even Beowulf can be very dry when it looks wet.
Paul
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27-Sep-2005 6:31:09 PM
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Yep, Home James was a virtual torrent at the belay ledge, luckily the ledges are large/positive enough to climb in the wet.
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