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Crag & Route Beta

Area	Location	Sub Location	Crag	Links
All NSW	(General)	(General)	(General)

Topic Date User

Blonde Gift- Bowens: missing crux hold 6-Jun-2010 At 10:52:37 PM vwills

Message

I wasnt responsible, but the crux hold on the Blond Gift (25, Bowens Creek) broke off today.
For those who dont know it the route is about 22m long. At 9m there is a small roof where the crux involved a gaston or layoff an average vertical seam with a reach to a small slopy crimp assisted by a foot cam, that led to a long reach or throw into a good slot.
The crimp is now gone and lays on the ground in 2 sections about 1x 2cm in size, there appears to be a seepage plane behind it and the small bits of rock look friable and unsuited to regluing on the route. The very leftward part of the hold is still there and able to be held but the loss of this key hold has probably put the grade up at least 2-3. The rest of the climb is lovely sustained grade 22ish.

Question:
a) Just regrade the climb?
b) Bolt on a hold similar to that missing
c) Drill a pocket/ slot to replace the crimp?
d) Call the route 23A0 and pull on a draw
e) hide this post and have people turn into frothing maniacs when they fail the route