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Crag & Route Beta

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International	(General)	(General)	(General)

Topic Date User

Canada 20-May-2010 At 1:30:24 PM gdawg

Message

>On 20/05/2010 One Day Hero wrote:
>Ya reckon? Man, I didn't see too many boulders which simulated 30m laybacks, nor >too many routes which required heelhooking on contrived arete/lips (that's what half >the bouldering is, btw!) I reckon my 'blocks' of 60 trad pitches in 4 days then 48 hours >of drinking and partying did heaps more for my route climbing skills than pebble faffing >would have :)

Bouldering ain't 'simulation' its Advanced Crux Studies. Heaps of hard squamish trad lines have serious crux sections (e.g. Daily Planet, Northern lights, Freeway). Basic crack skills will get you 9/10ths of the way up these routes but you havn't done it if you pull through the crux on gear.

mileage is essential but so is knowing how to stick it when it counts.
word-out.