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Crag & Route Beta

Area	Location	Sub Location	Crag	Links
VIC Northwest	(General)	(General)	(General)

Topic Date User

Gymwear Wall & bumbly fun 8-Jul-2005 At 11:38:32 AM rhinckle

Message

I have made the unilateral decision that an old thread on chockstone does not have staying power as a name.
So:
Gymwear wall shall henceforth be known as
The Iain Sedgeman Outdoor Climbing Gym.

so, same piece of rock, slightly different holds & pro, current view.
In order of difficulty black('Beanie' 12), green('Single' 13), blue('Sensible Undies' 14), purple (Shirts in the Gym' 15), yellow('Pink Hose with Helmet' 17?), orange('Lycra' 20?).

The Iain Sedgeman Outdoor Climbing Gym is in an old quarry. On the track from the Oak Forest to Wabbit Wocks there's a big pile of quarried blocks. Continue a little further and there’s a ‘carpark’. Not only can you park there, but you can turn your car around. Walk straight up 20m then right 40m. Big two trunked gum to your left indicates that if you keep walking, you’ll suddenly drop 8m.
There’s a big boulder 5 or 6 m back from climbs to lower and belay from, and another smaller one and said tree. Plenty to belay from.
The rock is a bit crumbly. Pro can be dodgy. Holds and climbs will change with use. For example, there is now a useable finger crack on 'Pink Hose with Helmet', that used to be (small) pro only. It's already dropped a grade in my opinion
(Left & right are facing the wall.) Bring wire brush for face, and dustpan brush for top. Top outs are fine, if encroaching earth is removed occasionally. Relax it’s only a quarry.

At under 10m, it's not a problem if you can't get up something.
There's an easy 4m layback corner at the left end of the wall ('Tea Cosey' 10), or you can fight your way out through the blackberries, or jug up.

Also, to the left of the escape corner, there is a 4m high bouldering slab and a harder slab 20m? right from right hand end of wall, in the second scoop of the quarry, best accessed from opposite end of quarry. Top out on his is currently dangerous (loose rock/mank/sand/soil) so do not belay from directly underneath climber, or something is likely to drop on you.