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Chockstone Forum - General Discussion
General Climbing Discussion
Topic
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Date |
User
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Power Grunting - Performance Improving? |
20-Feb-2011 At 12:16:09 PM |
BoulderBaby
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Message |
Seb Grieve from the UK talk's to himself whilst on a dangerous climb. He says it helps him to ease his mind of the dangerous situation that he is in.
Here he is on Parthian Shot E9 6c, or Aussie 31 with ground fall potential and possible death at the crux, nobody knew if the flake would be strong enough to hold the fall.
http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=0YGePHW5wG8
When Seb climbed Meshuga, another very dangerous 31 which claimed Neil Gresham's head, he also very famously spoke and swore to himself. "Get in the f*cking hold you t*sser!!"
Couldn't find the clip but here are some boulderers doing some Seb quotes from the climb.
http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=uvAtTbg4VuM
Johnny Dawes, an incredibly eccentric British rock climber, says that every move has what he likes to call a voice which is the sound you make when you make the move. This includes your breath, feet on the rock and your hands on the holds. So if you concentrate on making the same noises you should be doing the same moves.
Here is more on his theory of movement.
http://climbingcoach.blogspot.com/2009/04/declumsification-johnny-dawes.html |
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