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General Climbing Discussion

Topic Date User

A fistfull of steel (the punchup continues) 16-Jan-2011 At 6:36:03 PM kuu

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On 16/01/2011 widewetandslippery wrote:
>kuu how do you feel about the current stste of Hocus Pocus?

It's getting close to 50 years since the FA of Hocus Pocus and much has changed in the interim. I've happily clipped bolts on climbs at times since then but admit to only ever placing four bolts, bash-ins, (on a climb that nobody - to the best of my knowledge - has repeated) and I'm unlikely to place more.

Some of the present day discussion on the issue of retro-bolting pre-existing "trad" routes harps on the notion of first discussing the matter with the FA, as though this solves the matter for all users, but I fear there can never be a solution that is satisfactory to everybody.

But to answer your question, I have never ever been contacted by the people who, for whatever reasons, have engaged in the various waves of retro-bolting that have emasculated Hocus Pocus.