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General Climbing Discussion

Topic Date User

undersized carrots at the county 12-Jan-2011 At 2:16:23 PM Butters81

Message

On 12/01/2011 aarond wrote:
>has anyone noticed the crags covered in chalk are the bolted crags.....
>for example, The Gallery, Centennial Glen, Bowen's Creek, Diamond Falls.

Could this be because they are overhanging and the chalk doesn't get washed off?

>I think this whole debate is stemming around the one problem.... bolts.
>if there was no bolts people wouldn't clip them and there would be no
>concern.
>
>
>OK so people are complaining about hangers that are only rated to 8kN
>why does no one ever complain about the safety issues with a No.4 BD wire
>which is rated at 6kN. should they be replaced with something safer?

When climbing a route on carrots or SGABs it's quite likely people could take a whipper onto a single bolt. With a trad route, you have the option of knowing what the piece is rated to, knowing how good the placement is, and then backing it up. How often can you back up a carrot/SGAB?