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Safe use of Grigri for abseiling

richie

26-Nov-2010
11:54:42 AM

Recently I have heard that its may be unsafe to use a grigri as a backup for abseiling from a tower as the grigri is being used upside down. Can anyone give me some advice on this and offer some alternatives, thanks.

Miguel75

26-Nov-2010
12:01:55 PM

When you say the grigri is being used upside down, can you clarify you what you mean? I use the grigri for self belay TR because it's easy to switch between ascending and descending, and it's great for when I want to hang around working a move... I haven't had any issues with it yet.

skink

26-Nov-2010
12:24:43 PM

On 26/11/2010 richie wrote:
>Recently I have heard that its may be unsafe to use a grigri as a backup
>for abseiling from a tower as the grigri is being used upside down. Can
>anyone give me some advice on this and offer some alternatives, thanks.

Your description of the scenario makes no sense.

richie

26-Nov-2010
12:25:10 PM

Its kinda hard to describe, it is anchored to the top bar of the climbing tower by a sling and krab and belayed from the top platform. So instead of the grigri pointing up to the top of the tower (like from a ground anchor) it is pointing down to the ground. I only ask because Petzl have recently said a grigri should not be used upside down.

ajfclark

26-Nov-2010
12:36:52 PM

If the gri gri is anchored to the platform it stays at the top of the tower, right? That'd be lowering, not abseiling...

The good Dr

26-Nov-2010
12:49:38 PM

If you are using a 'static' rope as you back-up I wouldn't advise using a Gri-Gri as it is only designed for use with dynamic ropes. If you are unsure, check the usage docs and contact Petzl.

The good Dr

26-Nov-2010
1:09:58 PM

On 26/11/2010 richie wrote:
>Its kinda hard to describe, it is anchored to the top bar of the climbing
>tower by a sling and krab and belayed from the top platform. So instead
>of the grigri pointing up to the top of the tower (like from a ground anchor)
>it is pointing down to the ground. I only ask because Petzl have recently
>said a grigri should not be used upside down.

In this scenario, if possible, put a pulley where the top gri-gri is and find a floor anchor for the gri-gri. run the rope through the pulley, et voila the gri-gri is belaying upwards.

richie

26-Nov-2010
1:20:16 PM

Thanks the good Dr!

Miguel75

26-Nov-2010
1:51:48 PM

I am a little slow sometimes, though if you anchor the grigri to the top of the tower, how is it abseiling???

ajfclark

26-Nov-2010
1:55:39 PM

I asked the same question a few posts back...

Miguel75

26-Nov-2010
2:33:54 PM

In my defense I did mention I was really slow sometimes!

ajfclark

26-Nov-2010
2:38:53 PM

At least by replying to that I know you aren't ignoring me all the time...

Richard Delaney

26-Nov-2010
4:57:49 PM

gri-gri /stop/I'd instructions are quite specific for use when lowering from a top anchor.

The brake rope must run up through another karabiner.

Can't draw a pic now but that means rather than up, over, and down (like a pulley) the rope must go up, over, down, and then up through another biner above the gri-gri, and then down to your brake hand.

The good Dr

26-Nov-2010
5:56:54 PM

On 26/11/2010 Richard Delaney wrote:
>gri-gri /stop/I'd instructions are quite specific for use when lowering
>from a top anchor.
>
>The brake rope must run up through another karabiner.
>
>Can't draw a pic now but that means rather than up, over, and down (like
>a pulley) the rope must go up, over, down, and then up through another
>biner above the gri-gri, and then down to your brake hand.

Actually, the instructions for the gri-gri do not show a requirement to use an additional karabiner on the brake rope when lowering people.

http://www.petzl.com/files/all/technical-notice/Sport/D14_GRIGRI_D145110B_D145100A.pdf

Macciza

26-Nov-2010
8:29:02 PM

Orientation does not matter much here - gravity is not playing any part.
As a backup it still works upside down - like belaying a second from the anchor.
The only issue is if you need to lower them in which case you want the rope to run like normal, but upside-down- hence the re-direct on the brake side of the rope otherwise it is like holding your hand heaps above the grigri when lowering from the ground, makes sense.

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