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General Climbing Discussion

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test for gear security? 17-Nov-2010 At 10:39:21 PM rolsen1

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On 16/11/2010 mikllaw wrote:
>As a run on from the big trad destructo challenge, it seemed from the results
>that maybe what we rate isn't strength (well, were weren't great at that)
>but security, how a piece resists rope movement.

Has there been any work about how angles of the rope, sling length, fixing force, et al affect a piece lifting. Not in a fall but in general climbing?

When I'm scared I excessively clark my pieces (named after a guy we once climbed with who practically jumped on every piece). Always wondered how necessary this is? I've had pieces (other than the top piece) lift out in a fall when the rope is weighted but this doesn't seem "too big of an issue"???

Wondering if a test with a rope at various angles and weights/forces (right term?) and with various setting forces of the pieces may help in answering your question?

Maybe it is two questions, how much force needs to exerted on various pieces to unseat and lift them and how much force does a badly running rope exert on a piece?