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Chockstone Forum - General Discussion

General Climbing Discussion

Topic Date User
2 thumbs = good; <2 thumbs = less good 30-Oct-2010 At 11:19:44 AM rolsen1
Message
Sorry for posting, raining, bored.

Placing good gear just takes time, aiding up one climb or crack isn't going to give you a wide range of experience with gear. I'd just keep climbing and discuss the placements with your partner(s) at the top of each pitch - discuss the choices you made good and bad, why you made those choices and whether you think they would hold. If you're having trouble finding placements well I think that just takes time and a good mentor's help. If you don't have competent partners find one. There is no substitute or short cuts for time climbing on a wide variety of routes.

If you're worried about falling with only one piece of gear keeping you alive then don't change that, just make sure you place enough gear that if the top one fails one you have backups. You should stitch up every climb, not just for practice. If your fear is irrational, well I'm not an expert but I think you just have to suck it up - that's the game we're in.

As for falling practice I'd do it on bolts rather than trad, again the experience you have isn't going to authentic and probably won't help your head. Also as the previous post said if you want to fall, work routes that are too hard for you, you'll fall.

btw top roping is good for getting you in the habit of stepping up rather than slumping when you feel you're in trouble.

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