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General Climbing Discussion

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Dirty rotten pig, Boars head

costa

24-Sep-2010
5:36:06 PM

Have any of you guys or girls climbed this route lately, or at all even?

I want to head for some multipitch in the mountains tomorrow and will probably get lost elsewhere, whereas I know where these anchors are.

Anything I should look out for?

ozone

24-Sep-2010
5:46:24 PM

It's a lovely route. From memory the only thing we found tricky was locating the bolts on the final little climb out (the first rap in). It was dark by then but if you have a quick look at it when you rap down it should be fine. As far as the actual route goes, the guide's description is pretty spot on. If you walk around the base to a tree with slings around it you've gone too far. Enjoy. A fine route.

costa

24-Sep-2010
5:49:55 PM

perfect! much appreciated. I know this tree of which you speak =)

martym

25-Sep-2010
1:35:29 AM

On 24/09/2010 ozone wrote:
>It's a lovely route. From memory the only thing we found tricky was locating
>the bolts on the final little climb out (the first rap in). It was dark
>by then but if you have a quick look at it when you rap down it should
>be fine. As far as the actual route goes, the guide's description is pretty
>spot on. If you walk around the base to a tree with slings around it you've
>gone too far. Enjoy. A fine route.

Ditto = a friend led the 'scramble' and cursed that it was harder than the climb, just a blank slab with no bolts for 7m
Also from memory the abseil in isnt very obvious, make sure you head to the left when facing into the gully, and be careful on the last abseil lots of loose stuff.
Actually, lots of loose stuff on the climb as well. Helmet recommended
But good fun none the less.

rod

25-Sep-2010
10:25:28 PM

is this what you're looking for?

costa

26-Sep-2010
10:05:45 AM

That is definately a dirt rotten pigs head but not quite what i was after.

So we climbed it yesterday, rather precariously. I thought every hold I grabbed was going to snap off in my hand.

Pitch two was probably my favourite although I'd recommend doing it without the 100mph winds we had out there!

citationx

27-Sep-2010
8:45:57 AM

On 26/09/2010 costa wrote:

>So we climbed it yesterday, rather precariously. I thought every hold
>I grabbed was going to snap off in my hand.

I think it's how you climb. I'm around 85kg and didn't snap any holds on that climb when I did it. My climbing partner that was some 30kg lighter managed to snap at least two off! (they were two small bits that went whizzing past my helmet while belaying them)
Think light, climb light.

costa

27-Sep-2010
6:40:30 PM

yeh I used my legs more than usual trying to spread the load, We didnt break any, it's just looking at all the obvious missing holds that was in the back of my mind.
Comes with the territory I guess

mikllaw

28-Sep-2010
7:42:29 AM

95% of the missing holds were gone before the first ascent.

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