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General Climbing Discussion

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THE AUSTRALIAN RE, RETRO-BOLTING OPEN FORUM 21-Apr-2004 At 12:08:30 PM hex-TROLL

Message

On 19/04/2004 hex-TROLL wrote:

> The Ewbank system takes into consideration THE DIFFICULTY OF THE TECHNICAL
>CRUX OF A CLIMB ; A 30m ,grade 23 with bolts every metre is 'the same'
>as a 30m, grade 23 requiring tricky route-finding & well-spaced RP placements.
>
>
> It is that ' sameness ' which drives the retro-bolting pressure, ( mainly
>from the 'sport' faction ), as they try to rationalise/deny their 'reality'
>of " Why can I send 27 on 'draws and yet freak-out approaching 22 ,when
>I have to start ' thinking ' about all those other ' considerations ' ...stuff
>it !!!--- just whack a few more bolts in ,so more(ons) people can 'enjoy'
>the climb."

Yank 'chillin like a villian ' Cranker : ' 26 sport & 18 trad '

gfdonc : ' Spread of grades ; what does everyone else think ? '

Excessive bolt-dependency might have something to do with it...

Maybe ' The Ho ' is a good 'high-profile' example :

Re : Mt Buff' : BA ,16/03/04 : '...apparently Nathan Hoette...got spanked left, right and centre...'

Neilmont : ' Lets just say Mr nathan didn't want to try the sharp-end after his attempts on a [trad ?] route at least 12 grades under his limit managed to spank him ! '

Luv,HEX.